What Fabric Is Kantha? The Hidden Story Behind Temple Jewelry's Base Material

When you see a piece of temple jewelry from South India-especially the intricate silver necklaces, armlets, or hairpins with fine filigree work-you might assume it’s all metal. But look closer. Many of these pieces, especially the older ones, are stitched onto a base that isn’t metal at all. It’s fabric. And that fabric is kantha.

What Exactly Is Kantha Fabric?

Kantha isn’t just any cloth. It’s a simple, hand-spun cotton fabric, usually made from old saris or dhotis that have been washed and worn for years. These fabrics are layered-sometimes three to seven thick-and then stitched together with running stitches using leftover thread from the original garments. The result? A sturdy, slightly textured, breathable material that’s been used for centuries across Bengal, Odisha, and parts of South India.

Unlike woven textiles, kantha is made from repurposed cloth. That’s why each piece is unique. You’ll find faint patterns of the original sari’s border still visible beneath the embroidery. The stitching, done by hand, isn’t meant to be perfect. Slight unevenness? That’s not a flaw-it’s proof it was made by a woman’s hands, often in quiet moments after chores, passed down through generations.

Why Kantha Is Used in Temple Jewelry

Temple jewelry from Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and Karnataka often features delicate silver motifs of deities, peacocks, and lotus flowers. These pieces are worn during rituals, festivals, and weddings. But silver alone is rigid. It doesn’t conform to the curve of the neck or the shape of the forehead.

That’s where kantha comes in. Craftsmen stitch the silver beads, pendants, and filigree onto layers of kantha fabric. The fabric acts as a flexible backing-soft enough to drape naturally against the skin, strong enough to hold heavy metalwork. It also absorbs sweat, making the jewelry more comfortable during long temple visits in humid climates.

In some regions, like Kanchipuram and Srirangam, artisans still use kantha as the base for ‘nath’ nose rings and ‘jhumkas’ meant for daily temple wear. The fabric keeps the weight distributed, so the jewelry doesn’t pull on the earlobe or nose. Without it, these pieces would be too heavy to wear comfortably for hours.

The Stitch That Holds It All Together

The name ‘kantha’ comes from the Sanskrit word ‘kontha,’ meaning rag. But the stitch itself-called the ‘kantha stitch’-is what gives the fabric its identity. It’s a simple running stitch, done with a needle and thread, looping back and forth in straight or wavy lines. In traditional quilts, these stitches form stories: a woman might stitch a bird to represent freedom, or a tree for fertility.

In temple jewelry, the stitching is more restrained. It’s not decorative-it’s structural. The threads are pulled tight to lock the metal pieces in place. Artisans use silk thread or cotton thread dyed to match the fabric, ensuring the stitches don’t stand out. The goal? To make the metal look like it’s floating on skin, not pinned to cloth.

Some modern makers skip the kantha base and use synthetic leather or plastic. But those pieces feel stiff. They don’t breathe. They don’t last. And they lack the soul of the original. In temples in Madurai or Thanjavur, you’ll still see elderly women wearing jewelry with faded kantha backing-pieces passed from mother to daughter, still comfortable after 30 years of use.

How to Spot Real Kantha in Temple Jewelry

If you’re buying temple jewelry and want to know if it uses authentic kantha, here’s how to tell:

• Look at the back. Real kantha has visible layers of fabric, slightly uneven, with faint color variations from the original sari.
• Feel the surface. It’s not smooth like leather. It has a soft, slightly fuzzy texture.
• Check the stitching. If the thread is perfectly even and machine-made, it’s likely synthetic. Hand-stitched kantha has tiny, irregular loops.
• Smell it. Old kantha has a faint, natural cotton scent. Synthetic bases often smell like plastic or glue.
• Ask the artisan. In traditional workshops in Kumbakonam or Pudukkottai, they’ll tell you outright: ‘This is stitched on old sari cloth.’

Be wary of jewelry sold as ‘antique’ with shiny, uniform backing. Real kantha-backed temple jewelry is never mass-produced. It’s made slowly, one piece at a time, often by families who’ve done it for five generations.

Why Kantha Matters Beyond Beauty

Kantha isn’t just a material-it’s a cultural practice. In rural Bengal, women would gather to stitch kantha quilts during monsoon season, sharing stories and songs. In South India, the same spirit lives on in temple jewelry workshops. The fabric connects the wearer to generations of women who turned discarded cloth into something sacred.

Using kantha also makes temple jewelry sustainable. It reuses what’s already there. No new cotton is grown. No new metal is mined for the backing. The silver is recycled, the thread is leftover, and the fabric is reborn. This isn’t ‘eco-friendly’ marketing-it’s how people lived for centuries.

Today, as fast fashion replaces handmade traditions, kantha-backed temple jewelry is becoming rare. But in villages near Tirupati and Kanyakumari, you’ll still find artisans who refuse to switch to plastic. They say, ‘The fabric breathes. The metal sings. Together, they honor the goddess.’

How to Care for Kantha-Backed Temple Jewelry

Because it’s fabric, kantha-backed jewelry needs gentle care:

• Never soak it in water. Moisture weakens the stitches and can rust the silver.
• Wipe gently with a dry, soft cloth after wearing.
• Store flat, not hung. Hanging can stretch the fabric over time.
• Avoid perfumes and oils. They stain the cotton and dull the silver.
• If the stitching loosens, take it to a traditional jeweler-not a modern repair shop. They know how to re-stitch with the right thread and tension.

With proper care, a kantha-backed piece can last 50 years or more. Some families in Tamil Nadu still wear jewelry their great-grandmothers wore to temple weddings in the 1940s.

Where to Find Authentic Kantha-Backed Temple Jewelry

If you’re looking for real kantha-backed temple jewelry, avoid online marketplaces selling ‘Indian jewelry’ with uniform designs. Instead, go where tradition still lives:

• Chettinad region in Tamil Nadu-famous for silver filigree on kantha
• Kumbakonam’s temple bazaars-local artisans sell directly
• Madurai’s Meenakshi Temple area-ask for ‘sari kantha jhumkas’
• Vijayawada’s old jewelry lanes-some shops still use hand-spun cotton

Prices vary. A simple kantha-backed jhumka might cost ₹1,800-₹3,500. Heavier pieces with more silver and intricate embroidery can go up to ₹15,000. But remember-you’re not just buying jewelry. You’re buying history stitched into cloth.